Around midday, I leave Kingdom to find Wilderness Safaris, where Elina works. No soorner have I stepped outside the hotel grounds before I am beset upon from all directions. “Hello how are you my friend” is a common opening, which is quickly followed by attempts to sell me various souvenirs, or exchange my money at generous rates.

It takes me almost an hour to find Wilderness. Elina gives me two complimentary tickets for activities today – a cruise on the Zambezi and a traditional african dance show. She starts asking what else I want to book when I realise I’ve left my travellers chequs in Harare. Idiot. I have a credit card but this makes everything 4x as expensive due to the artifically strong official rate of exchange. I decide to put the following day’s Elephant Safari on my card despite the expense, as Elina managed to get it half price anyway. We arrange to have the cheques sent here from Harare ASAP.

On the cruise I see a few crocodiles and a hippo, although the hippo is almost completely submerged. I meet an english couple who emigrated to Florida, and a New Jersey native, who all turn out to be going to the dance show as well.